I don't often do "how to" articles; the Internet is awash with those already and there doesn't seem much need to add to the number. However, just occasionally I come across something where I've used a simple technique and haven't seen anything describing it anywhere else.
This was the case for my recent post on painting horses for wargames, where nobody else appeared to have published a straightforward, step-by-step guide. Mind you, I'm probably mistaken here: there are almost certainly such articles around - but I've not seen them.
With that in mind, here's my version of blending...
Colouration for Kodama Mooks
To illustrate this technique, I'm going to use a model from the Super Dungeon Explore range. This is a Mook, from the plant-man Kodama warband that ships with The Forgotten King (SDE version 2 started set). Here's a part-painted mook from my assembly line:
|Mook with khaki base coat|
Now, the colour on this model is definitely a bit on the bland side. This plant-man warrior has been base-coated in khaki, but there is very little detail beyond that.
I want my mooks to look a little bit like a fancy cabbage, with some vivid colour in the leaves (especially towards the tips):
|Fancy kale (image not my own)|
Right, now that I've decided what I want, let's apply some colour to the tips of the leaves:
|Mook with dark pink tips to the leaves|
This doesn't look good, I think. The colour transition from the dark pink to the dull green is too abrupt and unnatural - not that aggressive plant-men are necessarily "natural", but I think you know what I mean!
So, here's what I'll do: I'll create bands of colour between the pink and the khaki with different proportions of the 2 base colours:
4 zones in total should do. At each end the colour will be 100% of one colour or the other. The 2 "inner" zones will be mixes with different proportions of pink and khaki, so that we transition more gradually from one of the "primary" colours to the other.
Obviously you can have as many or as few transition shades as you desire. The more you have, the more work you'll need to put into the model, but the colour shading will be finer...
|First transition applied (2:1 pink/khaki)|
|Second transition applied (1:2 pink/khaki)|
These models are still not completed (there's painting to add on the shield, eyes & base. Additionally, I might give the entire miniature a thin, black was). But does the leaf look better now?
Here is a group shot showing the full effect of the transition colours:
|Stages of painting, from 100% khaki to 4-tone blending.|
There's nothing particularly difficult or revolutionary in what I'm doing here. For the record, this is technically "dry blending": I'm applying each colour separately and waiting for it to dry, rather than mixing the wet colours on the model. However, even if it is simple to do, I think the result is a vast improvement over the original single or two-tone colour schemes.
These mooks won't win prizes at any modelling competition, I think. But they'll do just fine as game pieces!
Terrific posting (and painting) Hugh. Your blending works very well indeed. I absolutely love 'em!! You're certainly making "SDE" very tempting at present, and I'm certain the Chibi admirers our there (Bryan!!) will love this article. Great stuff :-)ReplyDelete
Thanks, that's a very favourable comment! Of course, this painting technique can be applied to any suitable model, not just Chibi figures.Delete
Simon's not wrong. I do love this article. I've yet to paint my own Kodama Mooks, and this post certainly inspires me. The way you do your blending is very similar to how I do mine. Good work, Hugh!ReplyDelete
Thanks, Bryan. I'm glad you like these models; personally I thought they were a bit dull (though they're still not completed; maybe I'll be happier with them when they are finished).Delete
Very nice results. I am not patient enough to do that level of painting/thinking.ReplyDelete
It's not really very difficult, Cedric. If anything, you don't need to be as careful because a slight mistake will just blend into the next band of colour and won't be very visible!Delete
A very good and straight forward article I am sure it will come in use for many.ReplyDelete
I'm sure that most experienced painters will have seen & used something like this already, but I do indeed hope that the article might be useful for others.Delete
Thanks mate for the post, I rarely blend as I'm not confident with the technique, i have been trying it more and more with flames etc so this is v useful for meReplyDelete
Flames would probably be a good subject for this type of painting, indeed. As I said above, often it doesn't matter too much if your bands of colour aren't very precisely painted, because they'll just merge into each other anyway and the joins won't show very much!Delete
Thanks for the "Painting by Mooks" guide Golgar! I found it informative because the concept never occurred to me.ReplyDelete
I'm really pleased that you found it useful, David!Delete
Simple and effective, the ned result justifying the little extra effort involved and can obviously be applied to other things too.ReplyDelete
You are correct: it's really very little extra effort to do this. And the technique can be applied to painting anything that would benefit from a colour gradient (such as flames, as mentioned by dGG above).Delete